Fabric focus: velvet

For a long time, cotton tuxedos ruled the red carpet. Lately however, velvet is making a bold claim to its share of the spotlight. And it's easy to see why; it’s well-suited to dressed-up occasions. Velvet's soft texture and plush pile makes it feel luxurious to touch. It also has a subtle sheen that catches the light in a way that’s both sophisticated and understated, setting it apart from the high gloss of satin. And, of course, velvet is synonymous with opulence. But what makes this rich, durable fabric so enduringly elegant?

How is velvet made?

Velvet is crafted on looms that weave two layers of the same fabric together. Once these layers are cut apart, they create the signature raised surface, giving velvet its rich, tactile texture. The fabric’s characteristic sheen comes from the type of threads used in its construction. While velvet was traditionally made from silk, modern versions often incorporate cotton and synthetic fibres which not only enhance durability but also make it more affordable.

Where does velvet come from?

We have ancient highly skilled weavers from the Middle East and North Africa to thank for velvet. Because it was difficult to make, it was expensive and often reserved for royals and nobility. Even when weavers in Italy and Spain started using more advanced technologies, velvet remained a symbol of wealth, and was often used in crafting commemorative robes and wall hangings. Once it became cheaper to produce with new machinery, velvet got a new lease of life as the basis for a smoking jacket.

When the Crimean war brought Turkish tobacco to British shores, men took up smoking in a big way. The more affluent folk would retreat to a billiards room after dinner to puff on cigars and discuss politics and high society life.There was one problem though – they’d always return smelling of smoke. The answer? A velvet smoking jacket made from silk.

Thanks to the Silk Road, an influx of fine fabrics made their way from Asia to Europe, with aristocrats embracing velvet as a practical way to absorb the smell of smoke while protecting their clothing from ash. The jacket’s effectiveness in keeping both the scent and stains at bay helped cement its popularity throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. These velvet smoking jackets often featured relaxed details like shawl lapels and frogging (military-inspired braiding), giving them a distinctive, less formal look.

Velvet today

Today, velvet continues to appear in the black-tie space, particularly amongst the more experimental of wearers. It's a textural alternative to sleek handfeel of cotton, allowing wearers to add a bit of difference and personality to a classic black-tie look. Velvet jackets in black or jewel tones are seen at weddings, galas or upscale events, often paired with velvet accessories like bow ties.