Crafted to a tee

The humble t-shirt. A staple all year round, it'll never let you down in a casual setting. Whether you layer it with knitwear or an overshirt, style it with shorts or use it to scale back a suit, the t-shirt has a firm place in wardrobes everywhere, whatever the season.

But how did t-shirts come to be, and what made them such an essential in our everyday life? Let’s take a deeper dive into everything you need to know about your favourite tee, from its humble beginnings to how to wear it in the here and now.

Where did t-shirts come from?

T-shirts started out as part of a two-piece set of men’s underwear in the late 19th century. A lighter alternative was needed to the traditional flannel shirt that was traditionally worn, and the answer was the short-sleeved, crew-neck shirt that we now know as the t-shirt.

During World War I, American soldiers observed European soldiers wearing lightweight cotton undershirts beneath their uniforms. The style caught on and in World War II, millions of servicemen began wearing the t-shirt and incorporated them into casualwear after they returned home.

In the 1950s, there was a shift into fashion. Hollywood films regularly depicted t-shirts being worn on screen by iconic figures like Marlon Brando and James Dean, which became a huge style statement of the newly-defined teenage culture and the rise of rock ‘n’ roll.

The 1960s and 1970s saw the rise of printed t-shirts, featuring everything from political slogans and band logos to artistic designs and commercial branding.

Today, t-shirts come in all shapes, sizes and fabrics and are worn by all, regardless of gender or age. Fun fact: the term 't-shirt' stems from the shape it creates when it's laid flat, with the body and sleeves forming a 't' shape.

Not all t-shirts are created equal

The first thing to look for when you’re choosing a good quality t-shirt is the fabric choice. You want a heavier cotton with longer fibres so that it’s softer, stronger and less prone to pilling. Blends can work well too, but they should have a higher cotton percentage for comfort and breathability. The heavier the fabric, the longer lasting and less see-through your tee will be.

The fabric should also feel soft and smooth to the touch, with a consistent weave free of rough patches or irregularities. The same goes for the seams and construction of the t-shirt - a good quality tee will have neat and tight seams with zero loose threads or gaps. Look for double stitching and well-finished, properly shaped hems, sleeves and collars to maintain the shape.

Getting the right fit

The fit and cut of a t-shirt are equally important too. A well-made tee should have a fit that complements your body shape, neither too tight nor too loose, with well-proportioned sleeves and a length that suits your height.

Going for a more casual style? A looser fit and a more lightweight fabric can help you get the look. Something that’s a little more crinkled or distressed works too. If you’re going for a more relaxed or oversized fit to wear with jeans and trainers, make it intentional - sizing up your tee will mean that it’s bigger all over. For something that’s a longer fit, choose a longline tee. This will keep your usual sizing proportions. Our heavy weight crew neck t-shirts feature dropped shoulders for a boxier fit and have a slightly longer line and sleeves, offering a bit more room for movement.

For a fitted look, either choose a muscle tee that’s made out of fabric with added stretch so that it’s close to the body, or size down. It’s normally best to try your tee on in this case, just to make sure you get the look you want. Our linen blend knit tees are slightly fitted and have a really soft handfeel. Pair with wide legged trousers, cargo trousers or jeans to get the contrast between fits.

If you’re looking for that elusive smart/casual balance, a polo shirt can help you get it right. Especially if you choose one in premium fabric blend like cotton and linen, or something that’s knitted to layer with the rest of your outfit.

For a smarter fit, go for your usual size and choose heavyweight material that works with the rest of your style. We love using a tee and a pair of trainers to dress down a suit. Bonus points if the suit comes in a colour that’s not grey, black or navy.