Mill focus: Vitale Barberis Canonico
Founded in 1663, Vitale Barberis Canonico is a family-run Italian mill that’s world-renowned for its pure wool cloths. Based in the Italian province of Biella, thirteen generations of the Barberis Canonico family have washed, spun, dyed and hand-finished the world’s best raw materials into its much-celebrated fabrics.
With over three centuries honing its technical ability, Barberis reinterprets its vast archive of fabrics with subtle adjustments in weight, handle and design to match modern trends and tastes – and, as a result, has the world’s leading menswear designers lining up to use its signature cloths in their collections.
Fabric excellence
Barberis sources its raw materials from the finest farms worldwide, with wool originating from Australia and New Zealand. Employing over 400 skilled weavers, spinners and technicians, the mill produces approximately 10 million metres of fabric annually - a remarkable achievement even by industry standards. Their most famous output is flannel wool cloth, which makes up the majority of their collection. However, the mill is also revered for its fabric blends, like the wool, silk and linen blend we've cut our blue check suit from.
This season, our selection of Barberis cloths brings several options, each with its distinct set of characteristics. Here’s a closer look to help you make an informed choice.
Perennial twill
Crafted from 100% wool, Barberis' perennial twill is categorised as super 110, offering a fine yet durable weave. This creates the feel of everyday luxury, while remaining lightweight enough for comfortable wear all year round. Finer grades such as super 160 are a lot more delicate and prone to wear, making the super 110 construction a great choice for workwear or suits intended for regular use.
Flannel
Barberis' most famous output is its flannel wool cloth. Robust and insulating, flannel has natural drape and warmth as well as a wonderfully soft brushed finish. This season's flannel is made from super 120s wool and has a fine handle, making it suitable for year-round wear.
Tropical wool
Also spun with pure wool, Barberis’ tropical wool sets itself apart by being lightweight and breathable, the lower thread count making it ideal for warmer climates. Its high twist yarn count ensures durability and crease resistance, making it a practical choice for destination weddings and travel. Additionally, tropical wool's smooth texture and ability to drape well provide a polished, refined look that's ideal for suiting in both formal and relaxed settings.
Wool, cotton and silk
Barberis' wool, cotton and silk blend is a refined choice for warmer weather thanks to its lightweight and breathable properties. The lightness comes from the silk, which also softens the fabric and gives it a slight sheen, while the cotton offers breathability that makes it ideal for destination weddings or summer events closer to home.
Barberis at Moss
Every Moss suit crafted from Barberis fabric comes in traditional half-canvas construction across the chest and lapel, enhancing the cloth’s drape and allowing it to mould to your frame over time.
Aside from the beautiful cloth, we’ve also added finely crafted finishings – AMF stitching, a hallmark of quality craftsmanship, features on all our Barberis cloth suits. Additionally, all linings are made from a viscose blend, a more sustainable and luxurious alternative to polyester.
Italian style might be intended to look effortless, but closer inspection reveals precise care in the details.
